Deliciousness at Shagbark

Let me just come right out and declare that we had a lovely meal at Shagbark. The decor, the staff (a few who used to work at our old Tastebuds stomping ground), the attention to local purveyors, the food all were spot on for our first visit.

The interior of Shagbark: An airy space with rustic touches. The communal table made from a shagbark hickory sports a centerpiece accented by wild game feathers.

We arrived at 5 PM for a cocktail on a Sunday. Since we had no reservations and this place has already garnered national attention we thought arriving early would be the best strategy. We were happy to be correct. After imbibing in a Shagbark Sour featuring Bowman Brothers bourbon and James River ostervit, we were escorted to a cozy table for two.

Our bartender carefully crafts our Shagbark Sours.

Many of you are probably asking about the name. When I mention the name to friend or acquaintance, immediately the reply is "Shag whaaat?!" The name comes from the Shagbarrk Hickory tree. The communal table at Shagbark is made from the bark of one of these trees.

Walter Bundy (owner and former executive chef at Lemaire) features a menu with plenty of both local and Southern charm that changes with the seasons; at times focusing on items from a micro-season. Some of the temptations include fried green tomatoes, country ham, onion bisque with crab, frogmore stew, and fresh figs.

Highlights of our dinner included pan roasted Carolina grouper with shrimp, corn, and tomatoes as well as chicken breast with fingerling potatoes and butter-milk dill dressing.

Pan roasted Carolina grouper: A meaty white fish with a delicious crispy edge and served with summer corn and succulent shrimp.

The chicken came from River Oak Farm . This breast was the best I've ever eaten outside of my Mom's fried chicken. Both tender and moist. The buttermilk-dill dressing seemed an unusual accompaniment for the chicken, but it made for a delightful taste experience that not only enhanced the breast, but brought even more life to the roasted potatoes. Yumminess in abundance!

A delightful experience that hubby and I need to repeat as often as we can.

Quo Vadis

Quo Vadis. A Latin phrase meaning "Where are you going?" A novel in the time of Nero. A famous movie from the 1950's. What is Quo Vadis to us? A quirky Soho restaurant serving up traditional British fare with a tongue-in-cheek attitude. The dining room was furnished with white tablecloths, yet the flowers were seemingly fresh-from-the-field daisies, contributing to a relaxed atmosphere.

The menu refreshes daily and the top features the date and the weather. We dined on a cloudy evening. The cartoons remind me of 18th century pamphlets.

The menu features traditional comfort food, or I assume this is comfort food for the Brits. Nothing we ordered was fancy, but the ingredients were high quality and the preparation made everything delicious.

We ordered a bottle of red from the Loire Valley featuring a blend of merlot and cabernet franc. I lovely red that was a good choice for our entrees.

We shared a plate of crab cakes and mayonnaise. Herby and crispy on the top and bottom. A lovely beginning to our dining experience.

Hubby then had the poached cod with potatoes. As you can see from the photo, this plate seemed very plain, but he thoroughly enjoyed the fish and the potatoes were exceedingly fork tender. Comfort food, indeed.

Quo Vadis offers a different Pie and Mash every day. On our visit, the pie was chicken with a few leeks thrown in. It was served piping hot and the chunks of chicken fell apart as my fork touched the morsels. The dish was served with a large bowl of silky smooth and tasty mashed potatoes. A hearty meal. In fact, so hearty dessert (or pudding) was skipped.

Quo Vadis has been in operation since 1926. They have changed ownership several times over the years, but always seem to have a delicious reputation. This recent incarnation was a winner for us.

Donostia Basque Kitchen

A few doors away from The Portman we discovered Donostia Restaurant, a Basque tapas spot. Clean contemporary lines with a rustic touch met us as we entered this teeny place on a rainy evening. We secured the last unreserved table. At times it is advantageous to be unfashionably early.

All of the offerings were small to medium-sized plates and, for a London restaurant of this caliber, prices were less than expected.

We chose a Spanish Rioja to start.

And then on to the food. We kept our menu with us throughout the evening until we were through and experienced quite a few dishes from the expected to the unusual (unusual stateside, at least).

First up were Boquerones - white anchovies with piquillo peppers. While traditional, a bit too fishy for me. I concentrated on enjoying the peppers.

And then Pisto with Quail Egg. The ratatouille-like veggies were tasty and the egg delightful.

The Tempura Prawns with Ham and Mango were most excellent. We could have ordered many more rounds of these shrimp.

On to Creamy Croquettes with Jamon. Crunchy, creamy, salty.

Check out the Mini Wagyu Beef Burger with the Purple Potato Chips. Cute with great flavor.

One of the meduim-sized plates was the Monkfish with Black Rice. The fish was not fishy-tasting and had a nice sear. The black rice was unusual and a treat.

We also enjoyed Pigeon Breast with Peas and Pancetta. Served medium-rare, the pigeon was a hearty fowl more akin to duck or even ostrich.

Of course, we also had to try the Triple Cooked Potatoes with Brava Sauce. Yummy, indeed, with a slightly spicy sauce featuring pimenton.

A great place with a wonderful vibe and lovely service. If you go, try to make reservations. We got lucky.

The Portman

The first night we arrived in London we ate at a pub called The Portman. Pubs can be hit or miss. The food can be dreadful and the atmosphere loud and claustrophobic.  This one was about a block and a half from our hotel (The Cumberland at Marble Arch). Because The Portman was away from the major arteries, I think we were the only tourists that evening. We also arrived fairly early (jet lag was settling in) and we were able to grab a seat before the locals came in to drown their sorrows after work.

The food was very tasty and the staff were very nice since we were not familiar with the routine of ordering at the bar. I would recommend it.

Entrance to The Portman

A right proper bar. Hubby enjoyed the G & T's.

Beer Battered Haddock with Chips and Proper Mushy Peas

The Portman Burger with Smoked Cheese

The Portman is located on Upper Berkeley Street in Marylebone. Upper Berkeley turned out to be a very good street, indeed. We returned twice more to dine at other restaurants along the block.

After our satisfying pub meal we returned to The Cumberland and slept for about 12 hours.

Prince Edward Island Canada

PEI was a bit smaller than New Brunswick and Nova Scotia and we spent four nights in this idyllic spot. We stayed at A Garden View Bed and Breakfast located in Charlottetown. Veronica, the owner is a retired teacher and embodied the very essence of Prince Edward Island. She was tiny and charming and fed you so many delicious things for breakfast and worried that you did not get enough to eat. The place is located in a quiet neighborhood, but still within walking distance of town and the boardwalk bordering the sea. If you stay in Charlottetown, stay here!

PEI was our favorite province. Lots of undulating hills with serene farms that wander down to the sea. Most of the beach areas we saw had red sand/dirt/clay (although not as red as where I grew up in Mecklenburg County, VA). We enjoyed excellent seafood and fish, including the famed mussels. And we discovered PEI beef and potatoes. We really enjoyed the tasty beef.

We explored fishing villages and lighthouses (most not as well-kept as the ones in the States), country roads and beaches, the Green Gables House and forts. Pure delight.

We ate well in PEI including a fish and chip place that featured four different types of fish. At the Brickhouse one could eat at the kitchen bar and watch the chef and his intern prepare food for three floors of diners. Very impressive! Lunch was usually at a small village pub or restaurant for some tasty seafood. At Lot 30 we experienced delicious fine dining in a contemporary setting.

I've placed captions with each photo to indicate where we were.

Lobster Barn at Victoria by the Sea - a tiny little village that is popular with locals and tourists

Fried clam strips at the Lobster Barn

Lobster Caesar salad at the Lobster Barn

Lighthouse at Victoria by the Sea

Snoozing

Waterfront in Charlottetown

Spires in Charlottetown

Sweet corn ravioli with double smoked bacon and a lemon dill cream sauce at Sim's Corner Steakhouse in Charlottetown

Strip steak with broiled lobster tail with the best restaurant corn on the cob I have ever had. At Sim's Corner Steakhouse in Charlottetown

Farm and fishing village in the north part of PEI

Birthplace of PEI's most celebrated author - Lucy Maud Montgomery

Water play at Cavendish Beach

Cavendish Beach

Green Gables House

Green Gables House

Lobster traps

Covehead Harbour Light

Fort in Charlottetown

Water St. Fish and Chips

Sole

Cod

Prince Edward Distillery

Antiques in Charlottetown

Tuna carpaccio at Lot 30

PEI steak at Lot 30

Prim Point Light

View from Prim Point Light

Prim Point Light Lens

The Brickhouse Kitchen in Charlottetown

PEI Mussels at The Brickhouse in Charlottetown

Caymus Zin - Brickhouse Charlottetown

Salmon and PEI potatoes at the Brickhouse in Charlottetown

PEI beef burger and fries at the Brickhouse in Charlottetown

Charlottetown

Cape Bear Lighthouse

Brehaut's Restaurant

Naked lobster sandwich at Brehaut's

Fried clam strips and fries at Brehaut's

Lighthouse, sun, sky, and clouds in PEI

Orwell Historical Site

Chickens at Orwell

Horses at Orwell

Fishing Village

Lobster traps and buoys

Fort Amherst

Fort Amherst

One thing to remember about PEI - while you can drive onto the island across the Confederation Bridge for free, it will cost you ~$50 to get off the island (they do take credit cards). If you do not want to do the bridge, there is always the ferry to Nova Scotia (which costs even more each way). The bridge was opened in the '90s. Before that, the only option was the ferry. No matter, PEI is worth visiting. A Canadian land of enchantment.